A Message from the Mountains

The text message from Kamal, a headteacher in rural Nepal, read:

“I couldn’t send you a message as the lightning damaged our transformer. We had no electricity for 3 weeks. Please forgive me. The children were very happy receiving gifts of stationery and are very curious to see you soon…”

I’ve just completed my third rabies vaccination and double-checked my water sterilisation tablets. Not the usual prep for a school visit, but this isn’t a usual visit.

From Kathmandu to Taar

Soon we fly to Kathmandu to work with the leadership team at The British School, and then journey deep into the Himalayan mid-hills, five hours by jeep and river crossing, to visit a rural secondary school in the village of Taar.

We were last there just two weeks before the 2015 earthquake. Buildings were destroyed. Classrooms now exist in bamboo shelters. Many families still sleep outside. Yet what remains strongest in my memory is the warmth of the welcome, the dignity, and the deep sense of purpose held by school leaders like Kamal Bikram.

A Story of Courage and Commitment

Kamal trained in Kathmandu then returned to his home village in 1997, driven by a belief in education as a route to opportunity and transformation. During the civil war, he was threatened by communist rebels at gun point, but stood firm in his role, unwavering in his commitment to lead his school and support his community.

His story is humbling and extraordinary, a leader who serves from a profound sense of vocation.

Small Steps, Big Impact

With help from schools, friends, and family in the UK, we’ve supported Kamal’s school in small, tangible ways:

  • Books and stationery
  • A safe drinking water supply
  • Compost toilets

It’s hard to imagine a school for over 120 children never having toilets. Just hold that thought for a moment.

The Power of Walking and Talking

During our stay we’ll walk with Kamal to the Shiva Cave, a local shrine, on a four-hour journey through the hills.

I’m not daunted by the physical challenge, but look forward to the opportunity the walk presents:

  • Time for real dialogue
  • Time to reflect and listen
  • Time to experience a literal and metaphorical change in perspective

At altitude, we’ll be more than colleagues, we’ll be fellow travellers, grappling with big questions together.

What Does School Improvement Look Like Here?

When policy, frameworks, and data dashboards don’t apply, what does meaningful school improvement look like?

Perhaps it’s less about importing strategies (as if that would work) and more about ontological learning, a commitment to presence, listening, and mutual learning.

It’s about showing up not as the expert, but as a learning partner. Tuning in to what’s really needed and expanding our own ways of seeing and being.

Questions That Travel Across Borders

These are the questions I carry into every school, whether in a Himalayan village or a UK city:

What is the very best I can offer in this context?
How can I contribute in a way that builds hope and confidence?
And how open am I to being changed by what I learn?

Because leadership is relational. And the essence of school improvement is always, ultimately, human.

“Real Learning Gets to the Heart of Being Human”

Peter Senge writes:

“Real learning gets to the heart of what it is to be human… Through learning, we re-create ourselves.”

This kind of learning isn’t just about techniques or systems. It’s about presence, courage, connection, and a willingness to grow.

The Restless Heart Before a Journey

There’s a Swedish word I love: resfeber,

“the restless beat of a traveller’s heart before the journey begins; a mixture of anxiety and anticipation.”

It perfectly describes that feeling when something deep within says a wholehearted yes to a path not yet fully clear.

As Khalil Gibran puts it:
“Rest in reason. Move in passion.”

That’s advice not just for travellers, but for leaders, learners, and anyone committed to walking alongside others on the journey.

With Thanks

Warm thanks to Kamal, the children and families of Taar, and to the pupils and communities of Prestolee Primary and Harrop Fold for your generosity. Your books, stationery and support have made a real difference, and helped bring safe drinking water to a village school that’s very much alive with possibility.